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閩紅工夫

時間:2015-09-01 22:40點擊:
閩紅工夫茶簡稱閩紅工夫,是紅茶類中工夫紅茶中的一種
閩紅工夫茶簡稱閩紅工夫,是紅茶類中工夫紅茶中的一種。閩紅工夫茶政和工夫、坦洋工夫和白琳工夫的統稱,均系福建特產。三種工夫茶產地不同、品種不同、品質風格不同,但各自擁有自己的消費愛好者,盛興百年而不衰。

1、政和工夫


政和工夫產于閩北,以政和縣為主,松溪以及浙江的慶元地區所產紅毛茶,亦集中政和加工。政和縣全縣山嶺重疊,丘陵起伏,氣候溫和,雨量充沛,年平均氣溫為18.5℃,年降雨量為1600毫米以上,茶園多開辟在緩坡處的森林跡地,土層深厚,微酸性,茶樹生長繁茂。

政和工夫按品種分為大茶、小茶兩種。大茶系采用政和大白茶制成,是閩紅三大工夫茶的上品,外形條索緊結肥壯多毫,色澤烏潤,內質湯色紅濃,香氣高而鮮甜,滋味濃厚,葉底肥壯尚紅。小茶系用小葉種制成,條索細緊,香似祁紅,但欠持久,湯稍淺,味醇和,葉底紅勻。政和工夫以大茶為主體,揚其毫多味濃之優點,又適當拼以高香之小茶,因此高級政和工夫特別體態勻稱,毫心顯露,香味俱佳。百年的政和工夫,一經問世,即享盛名。19世紀中葉,產量達萬余擔。后因戰事摧殘,茶園荒蕪,至1949年年產僅900余擔。嗣后,著力恢復傳統品質風格,產量質量均有回升。60年代后,因改制綠茶,僅保持少量生產,年產約800擔。

2、坦洋工夫


坦洋工夫分布較廣,主產福安、拓榮、壽寧、周寧、霞浦及屏南北部等地。坦洋工夫源于福安境內白云山麓的坦洋村,相傳清咸豐、同治年間(公元1851-1874年),坦洋村有胡福四(又名胡進四)者,試制紅茶成功,經廣州運銷西歐,很受歡迎,此后茶商紛紛入山求市,接踵而來并設洋行,周圍各縣茶葉亦漸云集坦洋,坦洋工夫名聲也就不脛而走,自光緒六年至民國二十五年(公元1881-1936年)的50余年,坦洋工夫每年出口均上萬擔,其中1898年出口3萬余擔。坦洋街長一公里,設茶行達36家,雇工3000余人,產量2萬余擔。收茶范圍上至政和縣的新村,下至霞浦縣的赤嶺,方圓數百里,境跨七、八個縣,成為福安的主要紅茶產區。運銷荷蘭、英國、日本、東南亞等二十余個國家與地區,每年收外匯茶銀百余萬元。當時民諺云:“國家大興,茶換黃金,船泊龍鳳橋,白銀用斗量。”后因抗日戰爭爆發,銷路受阻,生產亦遭嚴重破壞,坦洋工夫產量銳減。50年代中期,為了恢復和提高坦洋工夫紅茶的產量和品質,先后建立了國營坦洋、水門紅茶初制廠和福安茶廠,實行機械化制茶,引進并繁殖福鼎大白茶、福安大白茶、福云等優良茶樹品種,1960年產量增加到5萬擔,創歷史最高水平。后因茶類布局的變更,由“紅”改“綠”,坦洋工夫尚存無幾。近年來,經有關部門的努力,坦洋工夫又有所恢復和發展,1988年產量達8000余擔。

坦洋工夫外形細長勻整,帶白毫,色澤烏黑有光,內質香味清鮮甜和,湯鮮艷呈金黃色,葉底紅勻光滑。其中坦洋、壽寧、周寧山區所產工夫茶,香味醇厚,條索較為肥壯,東南臨海的霞浦一帶所產工夫茶色鮮亮,條形秀麗。

3、白琳工夫


白琳工夫產于福鼎縣太姥山白琳、湖林一帶。太姥山地處閩東偏北,與浙江毗鄰,地勢較高,群山疊翠,巖壑爭奇,茶樹常種于崖林之間。茶樹根深葉茂,芽毫雪白晶瑩。19世紀50年代,閩、廣茶商在福鼎經營加工工夫茶,廣收白琳、翠郊、蹯溪、黃崗、湖林及浙江的平陽、泰順等地的紅條茶,集中白琳加工,白琳工夫由此而生。20世紀初,福鼎“合茂智”茶號,充分發揮福鼎大白茶的特點,精選細嫩芽葉,制成工夫茶,外形條索緊結纖秀,含有大量的橙黃白毫,具有鮮爽愉快的毫香,湯色、葉底艷麗紅亮,取名為“桔紅”,意為桔子般紅艷的工夫,風格獨特,在國際市場上很受歡迎。

白琳工夫茶系小葉種紅茶,當地種植的小葉群體種具有茸毛多、萌芽早、產量高的特點,一般的白琳工夫,外形條索細長彎曲,茸毫多呈顆粒絨球狀,色澤黃黑,內質湯色淺亮,香氣鮮純有毫香,味清鮮甜和,葉底鮮紅帶黃。(施兆鵬)

【參考資料】:《中國茶經》
【相關閱讀】:紅茶分類及品質
(責任編輯:三九鐵觀音)
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